Mike Sula legs out a two-bagger for the Chicago Reader this week, turning out a review of Won Fun on Monday and Gorée Cuisine on Friday. The former features a lot of the trademark Sula sass, zinging white folks whether they deserve it or not (though we often do). The latter is gentle and welcoming, a less frequent tone for the Reader to strike. Phil Vettel files another late-Friday post, reviewing the tenured Everest for the Tribune. There are as many altitude puns and nods as you'd expect.
A pretty negative review of Rosati's from Fort Wayne's Ryan Duvall. This is, of course, undermined by the cheesy, brightsided headline. And add another writer to the "uses 'au jus' as a noun" naughty list.
Radio silence from Des Moines continues.
Jane Slaughter has a pizza review, too, of Pepe Z for the Detroit Metro Times. The place seems kind of slapdash, and Slaughter is unevenly impressed. Elsewhere in Detroit, Molly Abraham delivers a 2.5-star review of a restaurant she didn't eat a single bite at, 2941 Street Food. Embarrassing.
It's still really hard to figure out what posts are the reviews on the City Pages site. I think this write-up of Lucia's by regular food writer/critic Mecca Bos is a review, but click on the reviews section and you won't find anything newer than August 10. Shrug. It's all we get from Minnesota this week.
Cheryl Baehr keeps the lights on in Missouri this week, reviewing Mona's for St. Louis' Riverfront Times. This was a place Post Dispatch critic Ian Froeb pretty well hated; the length of time it takes Baehr to get to the food is probably a sign that she's not suuuper crazy about it either. It's a very long review, almost 1,300 words.
It's Omahaute cuisine this week, as Sarah Baker Hansen reviews Au Courant for the World-Herald. Come for the phrase "baller ham," stay for the solid menu coverage.
Another week, another terrible bit of art from the Toledo Blade. The anonymous critic's review of Smokehouse Bistro is okay at least. And another new Over-the-Rhine restaurant reviewed by Polly Campbell for the Enquirer; this time it's The French Crust. G.A. Benton turns in a pleasantly zippy review of Paul's Fifth Avenue for the Columbus Dispatch. And in Cleveland, a pair of reviews, one of which is a pair of reviews. Debbi Snook hits up Red, Wine, and Brew for the Plain Dealer while Douglas Trattner does double duty with Munch and Greedy Girl for the Scene. Snook's review is punchy, more forthright than usual.
A pair from the alt-weeklies. Linda Falkenstein reviews the hip-pedigreed Porter for Isthmus, and in Milwaukee, we get a Lacey Muszynski review, wherein she covers Papa Luigi's and makes the bold if surprisingly not-new claim of "Milwaukee-style pizza." Samara Kalk Derby reviews The Post for the Wisconsin State Journal; hotel restaurants don't have a great track record in Madison but that's starting to change, just a little. What's really something -- and something, and something else -- is not the pair of reviews from Carol Deptolla this week, but the three reviews from Carol Deptolla this week. Did they realize they didn't hit Publish on the CMS over at the Journal Sentinel or what? Anyway, here are her reviews of Karl Ratzsch, Bavarian Bierhaus, and Mader's. Looks like I'm not the only one catching up around here.