Flyover Friday - Post/Pre/Pokemon

July 5

Lindsay Christians' review of Lucille for Madison's Capital Times

Lucille is the big deal of Madison's summer social calendar, and I think Christians captures the vibe of the place. I wish the Cap Times wouldn't run all the images in-line, and full size; it makes for a really disjointed reading experience.

Alisa Malavenda's review of 5 O'Clock Steakhouse for Milwaukee's Shepherd Express

The review doesn't come right out and say it, but it definitely reads like a one-visit review. Not super surprising, but reading a recitation of a restaurant's menu rather than commentary on the dishes is kind of pointless.

July 6

Aimee Levitt's review of Saint Lou's Assembly for the Chicago Reader

Levitt describes "meat-and-three" and "southern" as two different concepts, which I find odd because I've only ever heard of meat-and-threes in a southern context.

Polly Campbell's review of Flip Side for the Cincinnati Enquirer

Three stars seems high for a review through which Campbell appears to almost hold her nose. But for the grass-fed beef, it doesn't look like she really loved the place. Kudos, I guess, for her willingness to put personal preference aside for appreciating the restaurant's execution of the concept.

Molly Abraham's review of Atomic Chicken for the Detroit News

The most I can say Abraham consumed for this review is the fried chickeny air outside the restaurant. And that Rock 'n' Rye-dosed chocolate cake sounds damned good; I wish I'd gotten a feel for whether it works or not.

Mecca Bos' review of Italian Eatery for Minneapolis' City Pages

I think Bos should either have scaled back her ultras on the "ultra-local at all times" bit, or dinged Italian Eatery harder for importing its burrata -- a cheese everyone and their brothers are making in-house or in-town nowadays. I suspect the ceviche is not made with walleye and perch, though, too.

Cheryl Baehr's review of Worldwide International Food Market for St. Louis' Riverfront Times

"Roller rink snack bar" is an amazing reference. Baehr seems truly smitten; this is a long review for a little cafe.

July 7

G.A. Benton's review of Starliner Diner for the Columbus Dispatch

A zero-complaint review from Benton. I might point out that a medianoche isn't exactly the same as a Cuban, but eh, who's counting. It sounds like it's the restaurant that gets it wrong, not the critic.

Linda Falkenstein's review of Rockhound Brewing Company for Madison's Isthmus

It's surprising to me that Rockhound still isn't brewing in-house; I thought it was close at hand when I stopped by during Madison Craft Beer Week in May. And in fact, we saw some croquettes come out of the kitchen back then, so I wonder if the menu language hadn't been updated by the time Falkenstein got her phyllo triangles instead.

Samara Kalk Derby's review of Field Table for Madison's Wisconsin State Journal

This is a pretty nice review from Derby -- if you're a regular Flyover Friday reader, yes I can say that sometimes -- but I don't know how the cretzel escaped her mention.

Sarah Baker Hansen's review of Peanut Butter Johnny's for the Omaha World-Herald

Oh, a food truck review, I thought. This'll be brief. Yeah, no. Surprising depth to this one, though Hansen's a good writer and works in an appropriate amount of restaurateur input.

Ian Froeb's review of Weber Grill Restaurant for the St. Louis Post-Dispatch

It was a relief to find out Froeb despised the brisket, because I struggled to discern any significant smoke ring on that lead image.

Blade staff's review of Jing Chuan for the Toledo Blade

This heavily interrupted, staccato piece of criticism reads like Mamet without the swears, or maybe an Aaron Sorkin walk-and-talk. For better or worse, it does not speak to Chinese American versus a more old-world Chinese, but that's all right. We all know what's up when sesame beef makes an appearance.