A thoughtful review, considerate of all the aspects of opening and running a new restaurant. I hope 1847 becomes something reliably wonderful because Nick Johnson's light has been under a bushel for way too long following his lauded run with Restaurant Magnus.
Must not be any new restaurants to review in Milwaukee this week.
What is it with Iowans screwing up cheesesteaks lately? "Philadelphia's famously meaty Philly sub"? I do believe you'd get your ass kicked ordering a cheesesteak as a "Philly sub," man.
This fills the space that a review would typically fill, and all indications are that it was meant to be considered thusly. But it doesn't read like a review, with a lot of history and very little discussion of the food, good as it is. I mean, very little.
Beer shouldn't be frosty-cold, gahh! Okay, got that out of my system. This is, I think, the first of the major reviews to really strip away the excitement and novelty of the new Surly space and hit the food pretty hard. Bros' criticisms sound well-reasoned. "Slow your roll, Surly" comes to mind.
Hey I've been there! Beersball diners were all quite pleased with the food and the setting -- the rooftop patio Baehr mentions -- at Kingside, including those biscuits and gravy, which graced two orders out of three if I recall correctly. Good stuff, in a surreally chess-centric stretch of road.
This review might have been the first time I'd encountered the word "flavorsome," which is in fact word. A one-visit review, but a positive one. Felice reminds me a little of Tilth in Seattle, though it's been years now since I visited.
I had to clear three different ads to actually be able to read this review. It's kind of a weird one -- is there a reason for the jail themes from the kitchen crew? Benton doesn't mention any. And what's up with a sandwich of cooked ground pork on a roll, with literally nothing else on it? If I were the critic, I'd have at least one more sentence to say than "request garnishes."
Will I ever not be disappointed by a review of Chinese food in this column? I hate for stereotypes to be right, but damn, most Midwestern critics are just plain chickenshit when it comes to actually doing a service to their readers. How are Joe and Jane Q. Whitefolk going to get past customers and (often) staff steering them away from more challenging dishes if the critics that most likely share their whiteness don't give them a helping hand? Ugh.
Derby bemoans the girth of Wiener Shop's wieners, which she perceives as lacking. I don't disagree that they can get lost in the toppings, but if you think they're already too pricy, why would you think that more hot dog would improve things? It's not like the price would stay the same.
What a terrible name for a restaurant. I'm not totally opposed to the word "foodie" as a descriptor, but as a restaurant name -- just no. As for the review, it's so, so dry. The World-Herald's regular critic is off this week, and her fill-in just doesn't have the same narrative flair.
An interesting story, this restaurant. Hype -> flop -> re-envision -> success. Not many places have the latitude to reboot like that, so it's cool to see it work.
It's a review. It's got about as much spice as Flower Drum's General Tso's.
Vettel's past appreciation for this chef suffuses his Taus Authentic review, to the point that I kind of wanted him to stop talking about the old place and focus less distractedly on the current place.
And a big welcome back to Rick Nelson, with a review of Nighthawks for the Minneapolis StarTribune
Good thing Nighthawks delivers such huge portions; Nelson had a lot of review to get out of his system.