Flyover Friday - Don't be hasty

This weekend, New Glarus Brewing Company released another R&D Series beer, called Vintage 2014. It's a geueze, a blend of three vintages of unfruited lambic-style sour beer. As with previous releases like this, there's a finite (small) quantity that will only be sold at the brewery, may very well sell out by the end of Saturday, and is sold with a two bottle per person, per day limit. The brewery's been building this beer since 2011. You can't do a geueze right, and do it fast. Attention to detail over time is the key. Keep that in mind as you slowly unwrap this week's Flyover Friday.

Mike Sula's review of Dinosaur Bar-B-Que for Chicago's Reader

Kind of an Easter egg: the link of Sula's history of reviewing bad north side barbecue is actually six consecutive links. I'm afraid I can't picture anything but the Flintstones with a goofy name like Dinosaur. Sad barbecue is sad; comically sad barbecue is still just sad.

Tyler Fox's review of Blvd Tavern for the Kansas City Star

It feels like Fox is at a loss for words with Blvd, and I don't mean in a good way. The review comes off -- to me, anyway -- as padded with indistinct language and unnecessary paragraph breaks. As if he didn't have the time or budget to dine at Blvd even one more meal, and had to wring a review out of two trips.

Lacey Muszynski's review of El Fuego for Milwaukee's Shepherd Express

Indeed, ain't nothing wrong with chiles rellenos and complementary chips and salsa at all. Everyone should have a reliable Meximerican joint they can hit when the craving for enchiladas hits. You can feel what seems like a greater degree of exposure to the menu in this review compared to the last.

C. Acevedo's review of Krunkwich Ramen House for the Des Moines Register

Maybe it's Des Moines. I'm thinking about Fong's Pizza, the Chinese pizza spot covered in a previous Flyover Friday. And now Krunkwich? What does it mean? Sure, there's a sandwich on the menu -- okay, three actually. But where's the krunk? Some pretty poopy page layout for this review, at least from my online perspective.

Jane Slaughter's review of Sammi for the Detroit Metro Times

I was really concerned this was going to be some cutesy sandwich cafe based on the name. Slaughter doesn't make the review a minor lesson in Korean food terms, but instead couches the review in a discussion of the way people discuss food on Yelp. Interesting angle.

Molly Abraham's review of Elie's for the Detroit News

A nice review, more substantial than usual for Abraham's work. Perhaps a little rambling; sentences tend to tumble like boulders down a moderate incline.

Cheryl Baehr's review of The Little Dipper for St. Louis' Riverfront Times

I do love a good sandwich. The extra-St. Louis influence on this menu is clear from the use of actual provolone instead of St. Louis' beloved cheese product Provel on the Italian beef. Baehr transports flavor experiences to the reader's brain adeptly here.

Marc Bona's review of Cleveland Pickle for the Cleveland Plain Dealer

Quite an abrupt change in reading experience from the previous review to this one. They're both sandwich-heavy, but Bona's review reads rushed, like we're stepping into the middle of a conversation, and never establishes an easy flow. It's like a late-80's Micro Machines commercial.

G.A. Benton's review of NiDoVi Pizza & More for the Columbus Dispatch

"Carryout" as a noun apparently means convenience store or market or liquor store or something in Columbus. "Artisanal-style pizza" also apparently means something acute, at least to Benton. And a pizza called "the Big Pauly," named after the Sopranos character, manages to not contain walnuts and that's just plain absurd.

Adam Powell's review of Hydro Street Brewing Company for Madison's Isthmus

A daintier review than Isthmus usually publishes, and from a reviewer who makes only occasional appearances on the vertically-folded page. It's a fine review, but Powell is wrong in claiming that Hydro Street's Yarrow Gruit "isn't even technically beer" just because it eschews hops.

Samara Kalk Derby's review of Waypoint Public House for Madison's Wisconsin State Journal

Waypoint opened May 11. This review published on June 11. Papers that follow standard food criticism guidelines are instructed to not even begin reviewing a new restaurant until it has been open for a month. What's the rush, WSJ?

Sarah Baker Hansen's review of Noli's Pizzeria for the Omaha World-Herald

I have to hold onto something so I don't tumble over when I read things about New York water holding the key to pizza crust and bagels, that's how hard I roll my eyes. Hansen withholds judgment on the pizzaiolo like a damned saint. I'd be all over that dude.

Blade staff's review of Flying Joe and BleakHouse for the Toledo Blade

PHOTO CREDIT: This wasn't actually the food we ate, we just saw it left behind on a table waiting to be bussed. I MEAN COME ON. How do you print that lead photo? I have so many issues with this review, I'd be piling on to mention them. As always, the sloppy artwork will have to bear the sins of the rest of the review on its shoulders.

Mike Sula's second review, of De Quay for Chicago's Reader

One of the better critics in the Midwest putting out two reviews in a week? Sure! But then the second one is of a restaurant that serves the cuisine of my father's extended family? SOLD. I wish, as I think Sula does, that there were clearer expressions of Dutchness and Indonesianness here, but I see krupuk and stroopwafel and I'm all aflutter all the same.

Polly Campbell's review of Santo Graal for the Cincinnati Enquirer

And then a big PLFFFFFTTT to end the week's reviews with this bummer from Campbell. The review itself isn't a problem, it's the food that's a real letdown.

BONUS: Peter Sieve's review of Nighthawks for Minneapolis' Heavy Table

Let's do something fun to wrap this week up. Heavy Table doesn't have a print edition, but this is a multi-visit, full-length review and you've got to give props to that -- maybe even more so for it being a web review where the standards are more do-what-you-like. A lovely, evocative name for a diner, a menu that moves slightly past diner tropes and into something culinary yet approachable, and a review that recognizes the difference. Oh yeah, this is on the Beersball map for sure, and an enjoyable read even if you're not into the whole Beersball thing.