Whew, that lead image caption is a syllable-dense beginning to this week's reviews. The rest of the review is amusingly, pervasively shot through with the language of secrecy and spycraft.
There are some things about Hollander that sounds appealing -- the bitterballen, the butter burger, other things that start with B probably -- but nothing about the rest of the place really makes me want to risk it.
Does anyone actually read "entree" and assume it means "a dish that includes a side"? I never have, but it appears that Lorenz does. Just curious, is all.
Hy-Vee mention? Check. Maytag blue mention? Check! Confirmed: it's the new Des Moines restaurant critic! Hard to really evaluate on one review, just like reviewing a restaurant on one visit -- but she's got that part right at least, with multiple trips for her first review.
There's a feature vibe to this review, inspired in no small part by how long it takes Daniels to get to the food. She also appears to call out a menu typo, which feels picayune after discussing at length all the hard work done to create the restaurant but hey, no excuse for bad spelling. ("Mascarpone" is misspelled at the end of the review.)
You'll encounter another review of Reeds -- clearly a Big Deal of 2015 -- in this double-issue of Flyover Friday. But Baehr's review should provide all the inspiration you'll need to want to eat there immediately.
Contrast that with this review, which certainly makes some of the food sound appetizing, but doesn't paint a picture of a restaurant I'm eager to spend (too much) money at.
Well hey, at least one dish is described from a first-hand perspective. That's something. I like the storefront of the restaurant.
After my second visit, during which my crew and I dined from the Snacks and Little Plates menu, our slightly goofy server expressed a desire for us to come back and have a "real dinner." It was a weirdly self-deprecatory statement from a restaurant I enjoyed quite a bit.
It's disappointing to learn that dumplings are being deemphasized at the SoHo cart in relation to the SoHo brick-and-mortar. Why make both places the same?
Freebie's right; anyone who's paying attention is starting to see lineages form in the St. Louis dining scene, and that's pretty cool.
Mmm, blurry and over-flashed crappy photography. Really, does no one in Toledo see this?
The "Orange Wines" section of the drink menu is amusing. I don't get the whole "float" thing at the top, especially when there is a bar definition of the word, which Nagrant doesn't appear to employ.
I'm trying to figure out if the food at Bistro Z doesn't sound as appealing to me as the food Cheryl Baehr described at Reeds in St. Louis, or if Deptolla just doesn't have the same knack for evocative writing that Baehr does. You tell me.
A very gentle takedown, in which the restaurant's own staff is somewhat complicit.
Seeing a lot of old-school German popping up lately. this one sounds pretty good.
A native Iowan complaining about American cheese on hash browns is trying too hard to appear culinarily literate, unless she's literally never been to a supper club or diner.
Oooft. This menu reads like a trendy catering lineup. Maybe it's better than it sounds, but: oooft.
I have never heard of Eddie Merlot's, which is apparently a steakhouse chain in the eastern Midwest and Great Lakes area. I guess it's the anti-Mabel Gray. I dunno.
[Author's note: Safari bailed on me suddenly, losing the rest of this post from here down. So if I seem terse, let's blame it on that.] Baehr nailed two reviews in a row in this Flyover Friday. My thoughts (concerns?) about a toast joint were addressed in the opening grafs.
I'm not sure that I'd call a too-pricey burger and slow wine service "not firing on all cylinders," but that's me. Basically every dish Benton describes sounds like it was well-received.
Another Flyover Friday, another Abraham review that issues stars despite not describing a single dish in any qualitative or experiential fashion.
I like revisit reviews. In this particular case, it gives you a sense of where a city's scene has gone since it was a one-horse town, which you sort of feel like Omaha might have been (or at least much closer to) with Le Voltaire circa 2007.
Okay, so maybe Reeds isn't a 100% sure thing knockout. Froeb and Baehr cross over a little with their menu choices, and the beef cheek appears to be the real deal. I guess the lesson is order thoughtfully, but that's always the lesson, isn't it.
"On our visits, Muslims comprised 70 percent of those dining in or carrying out." -- the anonymous Blade reviewer, shooting for the meant-well "they eat here" white critic commentary we've all been guilty of using at least once but juuuust missing the landing. I mean, didja take a poll?