We get two reviews in the Shepherd style this week, published on the same date. I'd be interested to see the print edition; why not just give more space to one full-sized review than two of the usual short and breezy ones?
We are in the re-80's decade, trend-wise. At least this place is doing retro well, and not just for retro's sake.
Less than a year since her first review of Selden Standard, Abraham is back to remind readers that despite the fact that we're in the midst of a good bit of talk about Detroit's burgeoning dining scene (1, 2, 3, 4) already, this place still exists and she still likes it.
Fun concept, nice to see these kinds of experimentally culinary things popping up in the Midwest.
Really have to work to remind myself that this isn't Minneapolis' Libertine. Chef changes are almost always interesting to witness. This one appears to be working out.
It's a fine review, but so long. You can stop at the early paragraph where Nagrant reveals that there's some pretty obviously race-based (or race-intended, anyway) dress code policies at STK that would certainly inspire me to never unload a single cent, to say nothing of 50, at this restaurant.
A couple of curiously spelled restaurants in a row. Smoq surely would have been Smoque had there not already been a Chicago restaurant with the same name. But then, see Libertine above. (It has also been around for quite a while before getting this review.)
Maybe it's the funky formatting, but this seems like an unusually insubstantial Dispatch review.
Listen: Estrellón is really good. But it's definitely highlighting the problems Tory Miller has put on the record, about keeping good staff in Madison's restaurant scene. There was some stunningly bad service at adjacent tables to ours on more than one visit. I know the job market is what it is, but hoo boy, I hope the smattering of L'Etoile veteran servers Miller has working at Estrellón can get the edges honed.
An interesting story, North and South. Formerly Joey's, then the chain broke down and individual franchisers were allowed to retain the name if they wanted. Our Joey's did, for a while, and is now North and South. I was invited to a preview service here; I'll probably blog about it some time soon. Short story: the joint's got promise.
It's a restaurant name that just doesn't inspire confidence, I have to say. Feels like Hansen's intentionally needling somebody -- the restaurant? the reader? -- with the conspicuous if factual reference to tomato as a fruit.
I kind of wish Froeb hadn't led with Back to the Future, because now I can't shake the feeling that this review was held until there could be a pop culture-y tie-in. Now, if you'll excuse me, I have to write a high-concept Taco Bell review for when we get to Demolition Man Day in 2032.
Holy crap does that name scream 1993 or what?
Don't call any food item "Astroglide," no matter the temptation.
Welcome back, Carol! Milwaukee's gotta lure her out of the office. This is a careful step back into reviewing, but hey: back is back.