Lots of meta in this week's/last week's column, so I'll just let you savor the callbacks and in-jokes in peace. So what if it's Tuesday. It's always Flyover Friday somewhere.
Ooh, dang, that header photo. Toledo Blade, take note. As is often the case, Ferruzza has a solid perspective on balancing earnestness and novelty, and his barbecue New Year's resolution ("Never stop.") feels like I could have said it.
Not only does the other Kansas City paper make a rare appearance this week, but it's a barbecue review in its own right, too. (I still don't get why, in a city nicknamed "Chow Town," the Star doesn't publish more frequent restaurant reviews.) Korean food always sounds so good; its appeal covers five senses.
Nice to see Underground Meats pop up in the Vanguard's process, and Muszynski does a good job of giving the reader a sense of the restaurant. But I have to admit I fell down a rabbit hole of reading other articles about poutine as soon as I read the passage about it here. I love poutine.
Must be a pricey joint if Trattner's paragraph on main courses is just that -- a paragraph. If Adega turns out, as Trattner wishes/proposes, a Minibar-style light version of the main restaurant, in the same space, will we have "___ in Adega at the 9"?
I have to wonder if the name Antietam has anything to do with Detroit, or Detroit history, or neighborhoods, or something, because choosing a restaurant name that exists for most people as a Civil War battle site seems...odd. Food and scene sound amazing, but still: odd.
Speaking of reclaimed wood decor, naturally Molly Abraham will have something to say about Lakes' use of it (though she doesn't mention Antietam). That surf and turf dish cracks me the hell up.
I don't want to nitpick, but I'm pretty sure pizzaiolo is the word for pizza-maker. Otherwise, I'm not going to complain about reading more pizza reviews.
New RedEye website! Slightly less annoying, definitely more modern. For a "mini-review," Nagrant sure does plot a leisurely course to the heart of his review with a leading deviation about the Chicago Bears.
Full-frontal display? Whoa there Beth. What a weird restaurant. Farm-to-tabley notes with a sushi/sashimi menu? That's a degree of Asian accenting you don't typically find.
We are truly in the era of the fried/roasted chickpea. A nice review of a nice-sounding bistro.
God I don't want to feel jaded about food but boy does Darlington nail it in the opening line here. I do love the phrase "most aggressive and best curated cheese programs" because it's so ridiculous but so true.
What in the world is that opening line all about? "A thing happened that in my mind refers to what I'm about to write about, but I won't tell you what it actually was." And a "licorice-like spice" in Chinese cuisine is probably five-spice, just FWIW. That seems like a no-brainer. One last note on this one: I wonder if Hong Kong Station bought any of its Americana from the late, lamented Nifty 50's.
Not gonna comment on the header photo...not gonna comment on the header photo... This review is fine, nothing special, nothing horrible. Zero exclamation marks.
Unlike fried chickpeas, which are currently bombarding our upper atmosphere, it feels like quark is orbiting somewhat remotely, not quite ready to really make its presence felt. It's been there for a while, like that near earth asteroid we're observing. An interesting mini-trend in Chicago: the excellent restaurant and actual-inn. (See: Longman & Eagle.)
Maybe it's in the name. Linda Falkenstein published a great review of Madison's (presumably unrelated) Swad Indian back in March 2014, and while perhaps Cincinnati isn't as wild about Indian as Madison, Campbell's review is really quite good for being a little more gentle to Indian newbies.
What a bummer of a review reading experience. For her closing praise, Hansen doesn't seem to really have enjoyed Spezia very much at all. She deserves something a little more enjoyable to review.