Happy birthday, Flyover Friday! On Saturday the 10th, you turned one. It's a big week with a lot of reviews, so let's get to it.
It must be the 'e' at the end of Taverne that makes it family-friendly. I can't take my kids to a tavern! Oh, it's a taverne -- well okay then. It's also a short review, short like a toddler.
The common standard for restaurant criticism, as regular readers here know, is one month. To hear Ferruzza vouch for a three month wait is not the party line, to be sure. But then, not every restaurant ditches a chef within a month of opening.
A brisk scamper through a sprawling Indian menu is probably just as well. Certainly, the standard length of a Shepherd Express review doesn't allow for the kind of deep dive that Isthmus or the Journal Sentinel can allocate.
A juice company out of Kentucky, and "juice" isn't a euphemism for bourbon? Well I'll be. This review is pretty good for a juice review, though it's hard to accept the use of the "word" "nom-licious" in professional criticism.
$17 for a burger and (non-included) fries? In the words of Vincent Vega, "You don't put bourbon in it or nothing?" The burgers do sound good, though, and it's reassuring to read Trattner being more or less dismissive of the ground Wagyu beef phenomenon.
I wonder if the recycled hardwood gym flooring at Gold Cash Gold, mentioned in nearly every review, is from UW-Whitewater. I've seen their old flooring recycled at Urban Evolutions, and the "eagle" could be a Warhawk.
Another typically slender Abraham review. Another wonder: given Detroit's proximity to Canada (albeit Toronto, not Montreal), are the bagels there more in the Montreal style? Are they meant to approximate New York style? None of the above? Abraham is silent on this fairly key distinction.
This is, I believe, Nelson's first proper review since the end of November. It's been quiet in the Cities lately; the Pioneer Press hasn't published a review that I've caught for this column since September. Nelson stakes out the PP's territory, filing a positive St. Paul review I could write a whole post on. Aquavit in Minneapolis! The prevalence of subtle modernist techniques in the Cities!
My kingdom for a true 24-hour diner in a convenient location. Okay, maybe a ham/bacon/sriracha waffle sandwich isn't "true" diner fare, but I'd eat it.
A skinny but sweet one-visit review. More Over-the-Rhine. The Mercer sounds like a nice enough spot.
I don't know if tacos are going to surprise anyone as a trend, nor are they particularly underexposed. The language in Benton's review is oddly stilted, with a hard-to-read cadence.
Tacos, you say? This might catch on! I'm a little surprised at the "no ground beef" thing. Creative fillings are one thing, but elimination of a classic is a whole 'nother. It's unclear what benefit the review gains from pushing business background info to the end of the review; the transition is abrupt.
Note to self: take a weeklong course in Neapolitan pizza-making someday. Second note to self: be as brave in any one thing as the Pizzeoli chef is to not offer any meat toppings in a Midwest pizza joint.
More awful food photography from the Blade; they've really got to do something about that. (The header image is all right, I guess.) Would Toledo diners really be overwhelmed by Meximerican food? Come on guys. It's a Mexican pizza, not menudo.
Never have I encountered a more eroticized description of a hot dog that wasn't written by Anthony Bourdain. It's actually a frequently, weirdly sexual review. Also: brun-uusto doesn't melt!
Blorf. This place sounds pretty awful, and the editor's note at the top speaks to a restaurant trying desperately to look impressive at any cost. If any restaurant typified the kind of muddy dining experience I'm not trying to highlight with this column, this is it.