Flyover Friday - A light week

Terribly late, no excuses. Just so happens, though, that today as a publishing date means I can mention that Mason's on Main, the subject of my most recent review (see below, published last week Thursday), announced that it would close immediately today (Tuesday). I'm not saying it was because of my review, but the coincidence carries weight. A number of papers took a week off this time around. Let's see if I can make this the last late Flyover Friday.

Jeff Beutner's review of Hōm Wood Fired Grill for Milwaukee's Shepherd Express

Aside from the brevity of this review, I get itchy when a critic uses terms like "always" or "never." "You will never feel neglected" both places undue burden on the restaurant to live up to that standard, and sounds like marketing copy besides.

C. Acevedo's review of El Rodeo for the Des Moines Register

This review is far too short to spend so much time on the details of one poor dish and a corresponding chapter out of Acevedo's biography. The restaurant deserves more.

Kristen Franke's review of Salazar for the Cincinnati City Beat

Seriously is every restaurant opening in Cincinnati in Over-the-Rhine? A positive but perhaps overly chatty review; that's a lot of space dedicated to discussing panzanella.

Noelle Lothamer's review of Dime Store for Detroit's Metro Times

A fairly good, complete review. I would say it's unwise to pin a decision to not order a certain item on your mood that day; effort should be made to try a broad selection for the purposes of evaluation, not just the critic's personal enjoyment. If you didn't eat it, you probably shouldn't mention it.

Anonymous' review of Fowl and Fodder for the Toledo Blade

Blech, that's an awful opening graf. Boy I hope the chickens and hogs aren't grass-fed. (I think Anonymous means pastured for those two.) And does anything sound more stilted than writing that refuses to accept a contraction? This is not great stuff, and I love sandwiches so I'm predisposed to be all ears.

Samara Kalk Derby's review of Kristi's for Madison's Wisconsin State Journal

I had no idea Deininger's had closed, or was for sale, but here's Kristi's, replacing it. Anyway, it feels a little weird talking about a review meal being a birthday meal for a guest diner, but what do I know. Decent coverage of the menu.

Michael Nagrant's review of Parlor Pizza Bar for Chicago's RedEye

I've got a lot of beef with RedEye's ad layout, and almost as much with its very spotty review output. Is a "pizza review" a regular review? A mini review? Just write the reviews, guys. Because this one is, in fact, solid. It doesn't ramble like Nagrant's reviews sometimes can, and the rigid sectioning doesn't break up the flow unnecessarily.

G.A. Benton's review of Gallo's Tap Room for the Columbus Dispatch

Oh my lord there are so many hyphenated descriptors in this review that Benton had to be having a laugh with either his/her editor, or the audience at large. 3 of eighteen paragraphs are all that don't feature something hyphen-tastic.

Ian Froeb's review of Linh Mi Gia for the St. Louis Post-Dispatch

I'm sold on the chicken wings, but for as much as Froeb likes Linh Mi Gia (and remembers its former iteration fondly), it seemed odd to me that he'd close the review with praise of a different restaurant altogether.

Laura DeMarco's review of Merwin's Wharf for the Cleveland Plain Dealer

The second reference to walleye tacos this week. I dig the accompanying photography here; it drives home just how scenic the outdoor portion of the restaurant is.

Yes, this is a "gnocchi." Feels a little like piling on, but I really wasn't kidding.

My review of Mason's on Main for Madison's Isthmus

I'm, ah, just gonna leave this right here. I'm curious how people will read/have read this review, as negative as it is, but honesty is the only way to go with these things. It'd be patronizing to the restaurant to try to excuse the ways it dropped the ball.

Mike Sula's review of Acanto for Chicago's Reader

"Dressed to watch the Hunger Games" took me a little while to parse. That said, this is a very strong review, with none of the truly head-scratching turns of phrase that Sula's been deploying of late.

Polly Campbell's review of Redondo Taqueria for the Cincinnati Enquirer

If three pork belly tacos are only $9 and halfway decent, that's a respectable deal. And hey, here's one for the very short list of new Cincy restaurants not found in OTR.