Flyover Friday - Take 'em as they come

I find it amusing that the weekends I most often miss a Flyover Friday post are the weekends when I myself am traveling somewhere in the Midwest. Last weekend, I was in Minneapolis for the second Beersball outing of the summer -- more on that later this week -- and as a result, you didn't get a post. This weekend, I was all over the Madison metro area, so it's not a skipped week, only a late, Labor Day Monday edition of Flyover Friday.


Tyler Fox's review of Slap's BBQ for the Kansas City Star


The only intimate conversations I’m having at a barbecue place are between me and the meat. Crowds don’t matter. The review doesn’t say much about the specific merits of the meats, but I’m still sold.



Kate Bermot’s review of Bar Takito for Chicago’s RedEye


Single visit, on opening weekend – this is not a proper review, even if it is positive.



Emily Weiss' review of Libertine for Minneapolis' City Pages


God bless Libertine for continuing the bone luge phenomenon well past its trendiness. It almost seems like Weiss is unfamiliar. (The same is true of her characterization of poutine – a fried egg?) And how do you not note the Simpsons reference of the Tomacco Bloody Mary?



Amanda Sullivan's review of Miss Beverly's Deluxe Barbeque for Milwaukee's Shepherd Express


Counter service barbecue isn’t that unusual, and isn’t that how Milwaukee’s Speed Queen works? Odd that this would be picked as a standout feature. Anyway, barbecue. I like it.



Lindsay Christians' review of Rare Steakhouse for Madison's Capital Times


I really like the opening scene of this review; Christians encapsulates the struggle to balance throwback and modernity. I’m so leery of Rare, as it just seems out of place even in a capital of state government.



C. Acevedo's review of Mezzodi's Italian Restaurant for the Des Moines Register


Third graf: who’s “they”? This is one thing I’ve definitely taken to heart in my time writing for an edited publication; restaurants are Its, not Thems. Other than that quibble, this is a nice review of what sounds like a nice joint.



Molly Abraham’s review of Downtown Louie’s Lounge for the Detroit News


I like this review for what it says about the ongoing effort to rehabilitate Detroit. For that, Abraham’s focus on looks and aesthetic is valuable, and she does actually talk quite a bit about the food, too.



Noelle Lothamer’s review of Rose’s Fine Foods for the Detroit Metro Times


Detroit weighs in on the national tipping conversation with a tip-free teeny tiny café. I like it, but like Lothamer, I’d be inclined to wonder if it’s a model that can last at this scale.



Cheryl Baehr's review of The Crossing at New Town for St. Louis' Riverfront Times


Well, this is definitely not a positive review. It’s one of the more harsh criticisms I’ve included in the history of this column, in fact. Baehr went so far as to take a couple shots at the Crossing’s neighborhood, which might not be inaccurate, but are probably piling on. Such was the response that she’s issued further commentary, and even a measured apology.



Douglas Trattner's review of Grove Hill for the Cleveland Scene


The graf that ends with “Nobody, that’s who” could have come directly off of my very own fingertips. I don’t want to sound self-aggrandizing as a result, but this is a pretty excellent review.



Jon Christensen’s review of Red Brick for the Columbus Dispatch


Christensen spends too much of the review talking about the way this restaurant used to be. It’s pretty confusing, especially with his passive tone.



Anonymous review of Mon Ami Restaurant and Winery for the Toledo Blade


Editing’s a little too light-handed on this one, with two uses of the word scrumptious a few sentences apart (among a couple other small issues). I feel like an out-of-the-way review like this would have been better placed earlier in the summer.



Most of the very delicious burrata and olive oil starter dish at Cento.

This guy's review of Cento for Madison's Isthmus


Hi. I’m listing this week’s reviews in (more or less) chronological publication order, so here’s mine. I had a damn good time at Cento, though menu-to-plate accuracy was a problem and seasoning level seems uneven, given the reports I’ve gotten from friends.



Laura DeMarco's review of Campus Grille for the Cleveland Plain Dealer


A tidy little review, one that covers the basics well. The restaurant’s logo makes it seem like the owners are preparing multiple locations with different culinary heritages. Campus Grille: Italian, Campus Grille: Hungarian, Campus Grill: Criminal Intent.



Carol Deptolla's review of Le Rendez-Vous for the Milwaukee Journal Sentinel


I don’t know why, really, but it surprised me greatly that the native-French owner of this restaurant only has childhood vacation ties to the Milwaukee area. Must have been one hell of a trip.



Sarah Baker Hansen’s review of Mouth of the South for the Omaha World-Herald


Hey, if Omaha’s lacking for Southern food, why not open a place that serves a little of all the big styles? I’d go to town on a lot of those dishes.



Polly Campbell’s review of Wildflower Cafe for the Cincinnati Enquirer


Terrible opening line. Terrible. The rest is fine. Interesting that we get two dismissals of crab cakes this week. (Carol Deptolla’s Journal Sentinel review contains the other.)



Ian Froeb's review of Death in the Afternoon for the St. Louis Post-Dispatch


Such a good review. A handful of L’s OL, great detail on complex dishes, and a historical long view. Froeb’s A-game is hard to beat.



Mike Sula’s review of Bohemian House for Chicago’s Reader


Sula, another very talented critic, has been having some fun with us lately, I think. Opening his Bohemian House review with a fart aphorism is a ballsy move, but at least he resists the urge to return to it in summation at the end. I’m loving this new embrace of Central and Eastern European fare.