Flyover Friday - below

This week felt like an off week. Some lackluster reviews, and a couple absent critics. We're heading into the holidays, after all, so I'm sure some papers are rolling out retrospectives and listicles to allow writers and editors a little time off. But there's at least one really eye-catching review, almost all the way at the bottom. But start at the top, if you would, and make your leisurely, natural way down through this week's Flyover Friday.


Susan Harpt Grimes’ review of the Still House for Milwaukee’s Shepherd Express

Brief, and with a bit of a repetitive structure, this review needs to be punched up a little. Nice to see a former Miller person making good in the craft beer world.

Tyler Fox’s review of Chilli n Spice Indian Bistro for the Kansas City Star

We don’t see a lot of proper reviews from the Star, for it winning so many food criticism awards. I grant I can rely on “nice” from time to time, but Fox needs to reign it in.

Cheryl Baehr’s review of Lona’s Lil Eats for St. Louis’ Riverfront Times

Baehr had a heck of a job reviewing a restaurant that asks you to create your own menu, and with components that are likely to be unfamiliar to Anglo palates. Like Hu Hot with the menu written in Thai.

Anne Mitchell’s review of the Mercer for the Cincinnati CityBeat

Holy crap another OTR review. Does any other Cincinnati neighborhood have a new restaurant someone could cover? Mitchell does point out this region saturation, at least. A one-visit review, tsk.

Aaron Egan’s review of Addison Eatery for Detroit's Metro Times

Addison Building, Addison Eatery, Addison Burger, Addison Island Sauce. I think there’s a theme here. Here’s another instance of a Detroit critic placing an awful lot of importance on Detroit food. (Big portions of decent, inexpensive food is “Detroit-style” now?)

Molly Abraham’s review of Dime Store for the Detroit News

The breezy Abraham style leaves me wanting a little more detail about the food itself. That last bit about the absence of TVs is odd.

C. Acevedo’s review of Wobbly Boots Roadhouse for the Des Moines Register

Oof! Acevedo doesn’t get the opportunity to really rag on a place, but he does so here. Sounds like the restaurant earns it though. “Nonplussed” seems like the wrong word near the end, and certainly not misspelled as it is.

The Blade staff’s review of Veritas Cork and Craft for the Toledo Blade

Hey, the byline changed for these reviews some time recently, going from “Bill of Fare” (au revoir, Bill!) to “Blade staff.” I still think they should just get over the TOTAL ANONYMITY thing and put a name on ‘em.


Andre Darlington's review of Layla's Persian Food for Madison's Isthmus

Darlington nails his review of this deeply goofy basement restaurant. (Locals will know it as the former-former Cafe Costa Rica space.) Good explanation of an unusual cuisine around these parts, and as clear an explanation of Layla's hours as anyone's likely to give.

Beth Segal’s review of ML Tavern for the Cleveland Plain Dealer

A Cleveland restaurant this high-tone and Michael Symon isn’t involved? Pushing $60 for ribeye Oscar? Yikes!

G. A. Benton’s review of Hofbrauhaus Columbus for the Columbus Dispatch

A nearly identical take on the Hofbrauhaus empire, this time on the Columbus edition, a week after the Cleveland branch gets reviewed. Franchises, man.

Polly Campbell’s review of Steinhaus Restaurant for the Cincinnati Enquirer

Boy, are we in the early stages of winter or what? Another Germanic restaurant, more sausages and cabbage and dumplings.

Sarah Baker Hansen’s review of Marks Bistro for the Omaha World-Herald

It’s obvious this is a longstanding restaurant where people have their favorites; this review reads like a bit of a checklist. Another one-visit review.


Samara Kalk Derby's review of Cheese Melt Cafe for Madison's Wisconsin State Journal

Given the recent prison sentence of Cheese Melt's creator, this review would be timely and interesting no matter who wrote it. Considering Peterson was legally barred from opening any future businesses after the calamitous end of his last operations, the podium Kalk Derby gives to his relatives to provide him an alibi is maybe questionable, though certainly moot. The comment section brings all the legal ugly to the fore.

Carol Deptolla’s review of Movida for the Milwaukee Journal Sentinel

Interesting that Deptolla dings Movida’s star rating for serving primarily simple dishes, even ones that she likes a lot. But I agree with her at the top of the review: who doesn’t want their paella rice all crispy and brown at the bottom?