I've been hard at work retooling this site for its 2015 redesign, so I'm giving you two Flyover Friday posts this week. One is actually, ahem, last week's. As is often the case, there's a natural thread through this column, one of mirror connection between subject and review. You'll see Post No. 2 some time on Saturday, but for now, let Flyover (Last) Friday commence.
John Reiss’ review of Story Hill BKC for Milwaukee’s Shepherd Express
A new (to me, anyway) voice for the Shep, definitely carrying a culinary confidence born of his kitchen experience. Economical expression, more time spent on the food. Good stuff.
Mike Sula’s review of Charlatan for Chicago’s Reader
As with the Shepherd review, there are some adorably concocted menu categories on display at the Charlatan. Sula’s having none of it. A very rich-sounding menu is making me full just reading about it.
Douglas Trattner’s review of Bourbon Street Barrel Room for the Cleveland Scene
Trattner spends a lot of time on authentic atmosphere and hasty service– including even the apology from the owner – before getting to the food. Food discussion seems, ironically, a bit rushed.
Cheryl Baehr’s review of Whitebox Eatery for St. Louis’ Riverfront Times
I was worried that Baehr’s opening hook was a bit forced, but it worked as the review progressed. I love places that are brunchy/doughnut symbiotic.
Aaron Egan’s review of La Cina for the Detroit Metro Times
A starry-eyed review if ever there was one. I mean, it sounds great, but whenever a critic waxes rhapsodic about the “love” cooked into a dish…
Molly Abraham’s review of Selden Standard for the Detroit News
I don’t know, Molly, I think Brussels sprouts were having their time in the sun before Detroit found them. Sounds like this place is pretty hot, all the same.
G. A. Benton’s review of Flip Side for the Columbus Dispatch
Tis the season for Christmas shopping-hooked restaurant reviews. The problem with trying to tell a story is that you have to, y’know, tell a story. Benton gets down to the machine-gunning of dish-description-dish-description, etc., right away.
Linda Falkenstein’s review of King of Falafel for Madison’s Isthmus
I can’t believe King of Falafel’s been closed on Gilman for four years. But Falkenstein is right: gas station cuisine is having its moment in the sun.
Ian Froeb’s review of Social Gastropub for the St. Louis Post-Dispatch
Oh man is that name awful. But the phrase “trend-humping gout bomb” belongs on a t-shirt. I would wear the hell out of it – not unlike, I imagine, I would that Reuben.
Samara Kalk Derby’s review of the Statehouse at the Edgewater for Madison’s Wisconsin State Journal
An almost unrelentingly negative review, unusual for Kalk Derby. Interesting that her oft-quoted Dining Companion came up with the exact comparison I thought to make after reading the review: cruise ship restaurant.
Michael Nagrant’s review of Oak and Char for Chicago’s RedEye
I really don’t get the section headers, especially when they only label a paragraph at a time in spots. This review is just kind of spazzy.
Sarah Baker Hansen’s review of Smallcakes for the Omaha World-Herald
Taking the piss out of the mile-high buttercream frosting phenomenon? I knew I liked you, Sarah. Tough to make something exciting of a cupcakery review.
Joe Crea’s review of Hofbrauhaus Cleveland for the Cleveland Plain Dealer
Disney-fied sounds about right, though I don’t know what section of any Disney park makes a “wiener art” joke.