My hopes for getting this column out in time for the grand experiment that was #CTsujeo were dashed, but it's good to have the perspective on that evening's heavy-duty eating and criticism convention-trashing. You can see all our raw-review tweet aggregated here, but to answer your question, yes, I was submitting content for a Madison newspaper that wasn't Isthmus. This is a Flyover Friday that damns the rules.
An unusually personal bit of coverage, with a lot of input from pub staff. Christians doesn't pull punches, criticizing when necessary, but this definitely doesn't read like your usual review. It does sound like an interesting little bar, though.
A great review, covering exactly what you'd want a review of a high-end casino steakhouse to cover, and with wit and sharp observation skills to boot. Ferruzza's my guy.
Does any dish read more deliciously than larb? I mean really. More restaurateur commentary in this one, but it sounds like the owner is a sharp guy and probably knows the critic scene in Cleveland well enough to spot Trattner, or just not care.
Maybe it's the age of the restaurant -- over a decade -- that inspired a little editorial laziness for this review, but it needs a little tighter hold on the reins. Flabby language in some places fills out the word count with fluff.
Another luxe joint this week. The review reads like being the punching bag for a heavyweight, except calorically. Like a sock filled with butter. Lots of good art, too.
Sort of a micro-review of the greatest hits of Vietnamese cuisine in America. Let's talk about how a large pho is only 50 cents more than the regular. Where's the margin on that?
This isn't a statement on the food, but man, does this restaurant sound weird. I don't know if maybe it makes Detroit sense, because I would've thought Slaughter might have made a comment or two on the ancient food menu and fresh-to-death cocktail and dessert menus. Shrug.
Four-star review from Nelson: DRINK. Though I have to say, it is kind of nice to see a critic of some stature being able to wait on a high-profile, high-caliber review until he's game to publish it, rather than rushing the 4-week rule to get to print first. (Zentral opened in April, for crying out loud.)
I don't know about that BLT graf, man. Groany. The rest is good enough, though Dispatch reviews tend to be really straightforward. Maybe it's the editorial preference.
I love this. I love the review (Darlington covers the bases well), and I love the sound of this bakery's menu and general mood. It's also a convenient lunch getaway for my 9-5; I anticipate a lot of those little couple-bite pastries in my future.
So, I can't help but compare this to the #CTsujeo meal I mentioned above. I just don't know how you can go to any place just once -- to say nothing of a place like Sujeo, with its massive menu -- and feel like you've done right by both the restaurant and your readership. There's more I don't like about this review, but it all comes down to this.
See, here's a situation where the Royal We I have typically railed against would be acceptable. Instead, "Bill of Fare" goes by singular pronouns, and it makes no sense. Also making no sense: the explanation of who's doing the cooking and from where. Not a great review.
It's a slim little review of just the brunch service at Prosperity (a name that screams "brunch service" if ever there was one), but it's fine. I've been using "Orange Whip? Orange Whip? Three Orange Whips!" a lot lately, so I appreciate the inclusion of that cocktail on the menu and in the review.
A week off for OWH regular critic Sarah Baker Hansen, and I kind of feel like she might not have gone for the bleeding-edge modernity of Twitter and food trucks in Omaha angle. Maybe I'm being too critical; it's a fun review, a different kind of fun from SBH's (good) stuff. I think Logan's burying the lede here, though, which is: these slices are rectangular?
Small-plate Spanish -- yes, that's tapas -- has become so ubiquitous, so defining of Spanish cuisine in America, that it's almost impossible to imagine a Spanish restaurant that generally eschews the model. Salero does it, mostly successfully, though of course there are some fair complaints that Sula delivers with gusto.