My wife and I make a day trip to Door County around this time every year, as a celebration of both autumn and of her birthday (which also happens to show up around this time every year). We used to always hit the same spot for lunch on our trip (Stillwater's), but after a couple seasons where it closed early, we've started to mix it up in Fish Creek: The Cookery, Wild Tomato, and sure, sometimes back at Stillwater's. Egg Harbor, however, remains under-explored for our lunches; even on our little Saturday driving trip, there's a little flyover country. Today, though, is Flyover Friday.
I'd been wondering what was up with not only Molly Abraham, but food coverage in general at the News. While it's been sparse over the last month, turns out there was some kind of quiet reorganization of the website, and my bookmarks weren't hitting new content. So here's a trademark Abraham piece, light and, frankly, early on in the restaurant's current version.
Greek food does it for me, man. Slaughter may not find it to be a "world-class cuisine," but from my younger days going to "fancy" dates with my wife (when she was just my girlfriend) at Apollon, to moving to Madison and discovering late-night Greek over a decade ago, Greek food is maybe my most comforting cuisine. The world-class cuisine bit in the review isn't the slam that it sounds like here; Slaughter definitely digs this place.
That building looks great; bet it was an ice cream shop or something once upon a time. Kinda feel like the review was padded out a bit with all those food photos. I mean, you had a shot of the beef with broccoli. So how was it?
Pizza? Now that's what I call an egg roll! No, really, that's a weird dang restaurant.
Beutner could use a gentler hand with transitioning from topic to topic; some shifts are more than a little abrupt. But he covers a lot of the menu, which is appreciated.
Listen, I may have snapped a Hipstamatified food photo on more than one occasion, and even submitted it to Isthmus with review copy. But my lord, the filter on the Blade's art for this review is hideous. Truly.
The lifespan of this restaurant has been pretty unusual, what with all the kitchen and management shift, the menu changes... But what I want to know is what's up with the name? I don't think it made sense with any of the various iterations of this place.
I don't really understand why Benton didn't just go back for lunch and the patacon sandwich rather than writing two grafs bemoaning missing it at dinner.
One more Sujeo review to complete the set. I wish there was a little more detail on the food, but it's such a massive menu, who's gonna complain if a critic keeps it tidy and casts the review in a more nationally circumspect light. Everyone's eating there already anyway.
I don't really have a problem with the State Journal reviewing Great Harvest, a franchised chain. And I don't have a problem with Derby liking it so much. I do have a problem with SKD trademarks like extensive quotations from her friends, and poorly constructed sentences like one that uses the word "decided" twice, uncreatively. That makes this feel like a calendar in-fill review, just going through the motions.
Hansen's back from vacation, and the fairly rote, mechanical ordering process at this fast-casual, mix-and-match Vietnamese restaurant don't really allow her to shake the rust off. It reads more like a blog post than a review, which is fine, but not the best tone for the venue. Custom spell-check dictionary alert: banh mi.
While Sula praises the less pricy cuts of meat on RPM's menu, it seems likely that the Reader had to pay out quite a bit in meal reimbursement for this review. This is the "apropos of nothing celebrity" version of an athlete restaurant in a smaller sports town, and I'm a little shocked that Sula found it as good as he did. I would've expected it to be little more than a scene spot, where people go to be photographed.